More on the Sampler and Helix Sock with Instructions

 During our Crafternoon chat yesterday I got the alphabet and border finished on the Acton/Peacock sampler.

Because I did the sawtooth starting with 2 threads - one below the charted one, I had to space the lettering accordingly, one thread below. This meant my border stitches would be out one thread when I got to the bottom. So the lowest st on each side above the bottom border is 2 threads wide but only 1 st tall. 

You would never know if I hadn't mentioned it. But I did mention it to show that this modification is really is not noticeable at all.

I need to finish the flower on the right, the birds' beaks, and the 1 over 1 bird between the hearts. Then will check it over, fix any boo boos and it will be done! I may use this for a project bag and have the vinyl window go vertically beside the sampler.

I started another Helix sock two nights ago. I'm using a handpainted yarn from my stash with green, blue, and purple with a drab solid yarn. Come to think of it, I may have dyed the yarn myself. I must have started another project with it because I unravelled half a sock to rewind the coloured yarn and prepare it for use again. It definitely looks like colours I would have used in dyeing.

The stripes pool nicely in a diagonal alternating with the tan yarn.

• To knit a Helix sock, pick one of the colours (A)  and knit a 2 x 2 ribbed cuff as long as you like.
• then start the other colour (B) and knit one round, stopping 3 sts before the end of the round.
•  *Dropping B, slip the last 3 sts (colour A) purlwise, 
• then pick up A and knit to 3 sts before B. Drop A, slip the 3 sts of B, 
• pick up B and knit to 3 before the next colour. 
• Then keep repeating from *. 

Basically one yarn is chasing the other around the sock always stopping 3 sts before the next colour. No carrying of yarns or jogs!

Then knit a tube the desired length of the leg of the sock plus the length from the 'hinge' of the front of the ankle to a couple of inches short of the end of my big toe ending with B. Then do the decreases for the toe with A and graft the toe closed.

For the afterthought heel, determine where the heel should start on the bottom of the foot. (see arrow)

I lay the tube flat, pick up all the sts of B above and below this spot to the edges of the sock. This is more easily done with smaller needles to pick up only one side of each 'v'.

Then snip an A stich in the middle and between the two lines of B and unravel to each edge of the sock.

You will be left with the heel opening and all the sts on needles above and below it. 

Then with the desired needle, knit across the first set of sts, weaving in the unravelled yarn. Then knit across the other needle, weaving in the unravelled yarn on that side. 

Now you have all the heel sts on your needles. Knit the heel with decreases as you would with the toe until you have 1/3 of the sts left on each needle. Graft closed.

Do this with the other sock and you're done! If there are any holes at the corners, just darn them closed - no biggie.

This is a great way to use up ends of sock yarn. Toes, cuffs and heels don't even need to match! Each pair uses less than 50g of each colour for the striping and hardly any for the toes, cuffs, and heels.

I like knitting these because I can knit at night and not have to look at my needles much, I just go round and round.

Another way to knit the tube is to insert a row (half a round) of greatly contrasting yarn and unravel it later, putting the sts above and below on needles. Or you could just knit a conventional FLK or short row heel. 

The best results are with two yarns that contrast strongly.

Looking back at the first sock photo, notice how tight the striping is in the ribbed cuff, compared to it all spread out with the alternating yarn rounds. 

I finally blocked the Hydrangea cowl I finished weeks ago. 

I soaked it for a bit in warm water and some Soak wool wash (no rinsing is needed). There was a bit of bleeding from the dye but nothing major. 

Using my 18" blocking wires, I stretched it out widthways and lengthways, weaving wired in and out of the eyelet above the lace edging. I firmly pinned the points on the top and will leave it to dry. I wear long-sleeved t-shirts all winter and these cowls keep my neck nice and warm. 

I'm wearing this one right now and realized it's the same yarn as the Hydrangea one that's drying.